Becoming Balinese (almost) Part 2

You just never know who will show up at an upacara

 Today I went to Bangkiangsidem; a small village I pass as I walk the Campuan ridge line.  This is a village comprised of  60 families....all Nyoman's relatives!  Komang's girlfriend, (and relative), Putu lives in this complex and it was an honor to be invited to Mangku Baru (New Priest ) upacara.  Big big honor! It's only 10 minutes outside of Ubud and  a world away from commerce and traffic . A small village , it is surrounded by rice paddies.  I arrived very early and watched and watched in the steamy heat for hours of preparation.  Agus (cousin) drove me there; but first dropped Nyoman off at her adjacent village of Payosan for a wedding; she would be meeting us later.  (this should have been a clue that I was arriving Way Too Early.....as I had my 16" of physical discomfort for many many hours)  This ceremony again was filled with many diversions and exciting rituals.  The most beguiling being that a female High Priest  was tinkling the bell, in canting the chants, donning interesting new vestments  and it was male male priests Assisting her.
Every half an hour a small breeze would revive me, along with some tea and chatting with the women.  What I love is that "yes, I am the foreigner, and they are hospitable and kind and are quietly assessing me...(eeks is my sarong too short?).... but they do not feign added interest in me..........nor make a fuss..... they go back to their talk, giggles, work and I am left to just be"  
Traveling alone can be a "spectacle" sport, and i sometimes just get tired of being the subject.

adding more and more (my kind of people)

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Female High Priest-....must find out more; this is first time I see a woman priest Leading not just assisting

always the dreamy startling music

blessing the North,South ,East + West (and everywhere in between)

the women sprinkling Holy Water for puja

Nyoman adding "touches"(I can never figure out the "wheres and the whys")

always adding cabang to the many many alters

Yes We Must Have Music (Gamelan from the banjar)

And theatrics

storytelling

and priests

And more storytelling

Wistfully watching"I Want In" (no dogs allowed in the temple)

the women begin to sing

what a treat- the wayand kulit (shadow puppets)

always adjusting a detail  or two or two thousand

the female priest officiating WOW

I wonder what they have to say`about That?

Ah Ina.......doing what he does best!!!!  Santai (relaxin')

I enjoyed myself immensely as his community celebrated this young man's new role in his life and village.  The prestige was evident and the pride the extended family felt was palpable.  The 
lineage and enduring culture of Bali is Intact.  Ubud participates in this at its most sophisticated and detailed .... it is a sacred covenant.



travelin' woman