The Green School

the bridge was the first piece of construction; it also was washed away in 12/10 and just rebuilt..... it was just re- dedicated.... by offerings of course

 
http://www.ted.com/talks/john_hardy_my_green_school_dream.html

  With great fanfare, The Green School opened around 3 years ago.  I heard the Ted Talks (see link) and read the piece in the NYTimes afterward.
I was not especially interested in visiting the school (except to view the architecture) until I heard some of the students perform last year at an music festival at the Arma.  They were excited and exciting.  I think my own hesitation stemmed from "another educational hot-house serving the elite.......in paradise........but beyond the reach  for those who are indigenous"

Everything is Aesthetic (+recycled)

Diandra LOVES coffee and is always on a quest to find the BEST

pushing the bamboo limits

reminds us of Maple Street School (!) in soaring  beauty

everything is handmade and sustainability is a must

Pushing the boundaries with construction, and with a goal to be off the grid (hydro), the Green School does provide an aesthetic new paradigm.With plangent success one roams the campus in awe. Whether it will be sustainable as to educating is still to be seen. (they are still operating at a loss, even though tuition exceeds $10K) In its nascent stage it has been unable to provide the 30% scholarship awarded to Balinese children which is clearly stated as their mission.  Right now it is an international school, with families relocating from around the world to send their children. and become part of the community.  The location  is very remote (30 minutes from Ubud). 

eyebrow windows?

animal husbandry + organic farming on the curriculum

always new projects

"living" fence

The school does employ over 200 local people....and its organic farm feeds over 450 meals a day. Every day. Quite impressive.  As Diandra and I walked around we saw many trial gardens set up by each classroom.  These gardens were incorporated into their learning of various subjects.Currently, the school provides classes up to 11th grade (last year it was10th)....and they will be attempting to graduate students next year.
Walking around in a tour (provided 2x week), there certainly were A LOT of people interested in the school; multinational and well-heeled.  There were 60 or so in the tour.  Diandra first noted, "this sure doesn't feel like Bali".  And in this observation she was absolutely correct.
Thus observed, we were happy to see what the school is striving for.... and we will continue to watch for what it truly accomplishes.
 *ALERT* Teachers.......... they are ALWAYS looking....... so perhaps this could be a departure from sameold/sameold......and your opportunity to live in paradise.

the elusive Bali Starling

kindergarten classroom

bamboo flooring

cabinet

amorphic bamboo bookshelves

Pirate ship

walking through the bridge spanning the Ayung River

travelin' woman

Bali Bird park

this hornbill was very Interested in my Earring (natch!)

 I usually stay away from the tourist places ("Mom" says Dee.... this looks like marineworld for Birds!" but i was a little desperate.  more than a little desperate......... Diandra ,Jantuk and I had just visited a balian (healer) and it had not gone too well.  So, I thought the BirdPark would allow us to walk around in nature and see avian beauty. And Diandra indulged me....as  wandered around quite astounded.
(unfortunately it was Chinese New Year and everyone had the same idea....busloads)      It was outrageously expensive but we surrendered....... and did enjoy seeing the birds of Indonesia, Bali and of course the Komodo dragon..... whereas Diandra immediately pressed upon me ......to bring it home........

like no other pigeon i've ever seen!

the largest Pelican (he could have swooped up diandra)

my old friends the scarlet and green macaw (not from Bali!)

beloved cockatoo

flamingos.... but not pink- no crill to eat

the astounding Komodo dragon..... looking quite sanguine

Bird Woman is resurrected

another hornbill

I thought i was stalking a cassowary.... but no it's a Crane? (who knew?)

what a startling color of blue grey they were: nestling lovebirds:pigeons

can't you just get a little excited...... and spread your tail??????

Don't go Away!
It's also a breeding center.  i am ignorant of the real workings of this "park" (is it a zoo buying animals it should not be (leave them Alone!) or is it rescuing sick, injured or previously owned birds...... i had trouble ascertaining the real situation...... but i did not 
push it...... i had my own agenda that day: bird therapy 

travelin' woman

Jew Town in Cochin, {Kerala- India}

No it's not a disparaging way to describe a part of town, but a very historical and important place of worship and commerce in Cochin. Jews are Everywhere..... thanks to the diaspora. I was not surprised as I had been wanting to visit Jew Town for many many years,and finally when I Knew the Synagogue would be OPEN I walked down to the narrow streets, with their spices and of course....antique centers newly created for the tourists.                           

 Unfortunately, one is not allowed to take photos inside of the synagogue.  The facade belies an ornate and beautiful interior.
Built in 1568(!), the Pardesi Synagogue was partially destroyed by the Portuguese in 1662 and rebuilt later in 1664 when the Dutch took Kochi.  
The interior is really a beautiful place to Just Be. I sat in the pantina worn  wooden benches and just took it all in. The cool and truly unique blue and white Chinese tiles (no two alike) ground this tall building, with many crystal  chandeliers hanging along with the ornate "eternal light".    (the tiles were originally ordered  by a raja.... but that's another story.)  There are two ornately carved pulpits .  One for the ark and the other for prayer service.
I purchased a small book about the synagogue if anyone is interested in reading about it.

the gates outside of the synagogue

the part of town was given by the Raja of Cochin who also protected the Jews there

part of the facade of the synagogue

the streets of Jew Town- spices galore- the Jews were the traders and merchants of the sea with their own boats.

The houses are in the  simple Dutch style, contiguous and connected, allowing people to observe the Sabbath without leaving their homes.  It was/is a safe haven for Jews for centuries for them to live and work.

travelin' woman

Food- Indian Thali

the beautiful and aromatic spices of the Malabar coast

Thali plate with rice and chapati

I ate so much thali this trip I began to crave it and dream about it.

thali plate with paratha

Thali  is the plated concept of rice or roti (Indian  breads) surrounded by small dishes of savoury compliments.  It is served on a round metal tray or banana leaf.  It has a combination of "wet" and "dry" curries or masalas. Of course it is to be eaten with your right hand.... or in my case, often a combination of hand and cutlery.

A Dal (dhal) is always included ( soupy lentils) to be scooped by paratha or mixed into rice. (basmati, grown in  India because it takes less water! and is so fragrant). {forming the perfect protein, legumes and grain}

 For me, vegetarian , I really love aloo gobi (potato/cauliflower) a northern spicy curry often included and my FAVORITE (uneaten until this trip); bhindi masala (a dry okra curry...... not the least slimy; a but crunchy and unctuous at the same time; wholly flavorful.) 

Dry spicy Aubergine masala and or saag paneer (spinach with curd) and raita (sour yogurt with various raw vegetables) and of course One Must Ask for achar (really spicy/hot pickle) and /or chutney.  In southern India the curries often have a base of coconut milk.....but subtle and light.

It's a really satisfying meal.....and of course it takes Hours  upon hours to prepare it due to the variety of dishes.......not to mention making the paratha. So whereas I have prepared Indian feasts solo...... I have also prepared them with friends......... friends are better..... .especially those with Indian mothers.

Eating a thali can educe feelings of well-being in oneself and the world.

Is there anyone who doesn't adore Indian food.....crave it.....openly wish there was an Indian woman who would cook all day and when you returned home, the fragrant aromas would greet you as you opened the door?

Pretty big fantasy.

Therefore many of us attempt to recreate.

I became a vegetarian when I was 12.   Four years later, the "Vegetarian Epicure" was published (still a good cookbook to  refer to) and this is the where I began my foray into cooking Indian.  Back then I bought "curry"  (in a jar- yes i was louche) as opposed to grinding the spices freshly each time.  It wasn't until 3 years later ,my first trip to India that I understood the important techniques of frying the spices in the ghee/oil initially to impart flavors. Watching the women early in the morning begin the day's meals,using wood fire, seasoned black cauldrons and of course the mortar and pestle.  Essential!

And I am still learning.  This trip  the food was filled with "curry leaf", but it was not at all the plant I was familiar with.

This leaf actually is redolent of curry and added at the end of the protracted cooking.

I loved this added layer of flavor.... and Indian cooking is All About Layering the Flavors.

Narrow and dark green, I 've not seen it in the U.S., but will attempt to get it . (or have my sister get it....thanks Deb)

travelin' woman

Tea anyone? and Charming Mysore (Karnatika, India)

women picking all the tea by hand

upland plantation, harvesting new tea leaves

A lot of hard work (of course) Notice how she stores the leaves

the entry  into the Palace at Mysore

Somewhere between the hill  country 
of northern Kerala and driving into the southern part of Karnatika to visit Mysore, we came upon these women picking the tea, softly moving within the landscape, doing their delicate work of picking the young pale tea leaves.....an on going process.  (white tea in current vogue is even more difficult to harvest as it is the new leaf Unfurled)

historic headquarters of the Wodeyar raja dynasty

Mysore is A Delightful Place to Visit.  Unlike the chaos one can experience in Indian cities....... it is reined in with a city planning
transportation plan that really makes sense.  There is nothing like whizzing circularly  around the streets in a tuk-tuk in the evening, the breeze making me giggle even more.

DEMONS

old palace was gutted by fire in 1897

pretty much over the top inside and out

overview of gardens + palace

The great temple of Sri Chamundeswari (125 ft Height)

No picture taking allowed  in the interior .... but truly it was as flamboyant with stained glass, paintings that followed you around with "their eyes" , mirrors galore , gorgeous mosaic floor tiles,carved wooden doors and Color as the
Raja's collaboration with the Edwardian reign could be.
My jaw was perpetually slack in awe. 

waiting for the pilgrims outside temple

monkey on the climb

Ritual: as you enter the  temple you break a coconut and then  take the  colorful pastes and put on your forehead for bindi

We then climbed Chamundi Hill to see some great views of the city and visit an important temple for pilgrimage.  I am sorry i could not capture the THRONGS of pilgrims lined up.....we also queued up and actually had the rarity of going into the chamber of the temple. Holding an offering, one is pushed through the sea 
of humanity, each wave pushing you closer to the destination;
a Hindu priest giving you a blessing.
Being a supplicant in this manner is difficult for me.
It was busy + fast!

outside of Sri Chamundeswari Temple- the ever present street food and sacred cow

detail on temple

the pyramids of color go on your BODY (in paste form)

How to describe the Indian market places......... well just take a look at the one in Mysore

that's a whole lot of succulent beans

banana leaves (who needs tableware?) this is how they serve your food

ah the garlands

Coconut......lovely staple of indian cooking and eating (and puja also)

Bhindi Okra my favorite and beautiful aubergine

Banana-Sculpture

the colors never  cease

Mysore was definitely a highlight of southern India for me.  Charles also took us out for some Outrageous Street Food- he knew where  we could eat safely and I was pretty blissed out as was everyone else; spicy, succulent and savory.  Cheap too!
Mysore also had the most beautiful silks and I indulged in purchasing Another dress for my darling daughter. 
I hope you have the opportunity to walk the beautifully laid out streets of Mysore and go whizzing around in your own tuk-tuk.
It has a charm that is uniquely its own; sophisticated and yet real India pulsating.







travelin' woman