Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Live! from Galle Music Festival 2012

Chhayanaut Baouls- Outrageously Great from Bangladesh-the drummer danced around the stage: he was a rubber band
 What an opportunity!  Not only did I get to attend this music festival but because of the volunteer work assigned to me (interview attendees of their response to the festival with an in- depth questionnaire) I had to engage with all kinds of people..... and that's what made it rare for me.  The festival was sponsored by a number of public/private affiliations, most notably by Sewalanka Foundation (www.sewalanka.org) who I worked for and US AID, where I
can report your tax dollars were Well Spent, on the ground,promoting interactivity /"bridge" to the different factions that separated the country of Sri Lanka for 30 years during their civil war. (ended 2009) It was an occasion that I felt good about being an American for the Right Reason. It doesn't happen often enough for me.
hangin' out on top of the fort


 Held in part of the Galle, surrounded by ramparts (which saved this part of Galle from the 2004 tsunami) the setting was truly magnificent. The Indian Ocean on one side of the Samanala Grounds and the architecture of the fort on the other. The fort was built in the 17th c. by the Portuguese, and augmented several times in later centuries by the Dutch and British. (Exact history repeated on the western coast of India  Kerala etc. has the same resources (ie:spices).

the ramparts offer beautiful views of the harbor and sea
The objective of the music festival was not just to bring a diverse cultural musical and dance event but to bring the current generation together': north and south, Sinhalese and Tamil.... for healing and optimism. (the warring factions was another left- over colonial legacy) It was a brutal war, terrorism and many attacks of bombing occurred not just in the north but in Colombo.  The road to peace has faltered several times, and it is just now that the country is trying to catch up from a 30 year delay. (more on that in a later blog)
the festival grounds looking down from the fort- the main stage
the view of the Indian Ocean from the fort
the young beautiful students arriving in anticipation

 The daytime festivities and workshops were for students and children.Young people in tee-shirts provided  by USAID  (orange for the northern Tamils, navy for the southern Sinhalese) were bussed in for the festival..... they were thrilled to be there, to try and communicate in the  the "other" language.  Performances were given in huts surrounding the grounds. Mostly Sri Lankan, but there were groups from Bangladesh, India, Palestine and Norway. (Norwegian Embassy was a sponsor).
opening performance


action shot
the kids in the orange tee's were bussed in from the Jaffna (north- Tamil) to "bridge"
The opening ceremonies were long and tedious (hey, where's the music?) and o yes everything spoken was then repeated in 3 languages (during the entire festival).  Dig the Hindu Priest I was sitting close to. He did giggle a lot.
the country is mostly Buddhist (see orange Monk) and the north is a minority of Tamil (Hindu)
So, in the blazing Heat and humidity (i wrapped a duppatta around my head....prompting many to ask if i was Muslim) and wandered around for 2 days and nights....diggin' the music and Talking. (Was I born for that job or what?) Despite the great language barrier I spoke to over 100 people....need I add that students were my favorite? The groups of kids always wanted to exchange their language skills (and email addresses) and they were bubbling, excited and shy all at the same time.
Chari (my contact Ashanti from the foundation's cousin) has an MBA from Stanford and he's back in his country promoting sustainable and organic agriculture. Not just promoting, but working WITH  the farmers. Rice paddies CANNOT be sold for development.  It is state policy; to perpetually keep this land in production.  We can get this rice from Lotus Brands.  He represents the brightest and most humane in ANY country. 



students (local) watching the opening performances
sri lankan musicians- blending traditional and contemporary

rhythmic Cookin'

the music was  traditional and folk and contemporary. Diversity was the trope weaving sounds for the two days.

percussion from kitchen implements?

the students rapt attention





sunset at the grounds.....let the nighttime music Begin! (the orange tee-shirts at right are the young people from Jaffna -Hindu)
this group from Jaffna were very Dynamic
 The evening performances were held on the main stage.  Families would 
continually wander in, with children of all ages.  Everyone was having a great time as the music, each group showcasing another electrifying expression of music.
YES these are Men In Lunghi's playing contemporary Indian Rock

their terrific bamboo flute player
 So, what got me Really Boogeying..... the Raghu Dixit Project (pronounced the Ragu Dick-shit project..... i kid you not.... i thought someone had a very ironic-black sense of humor).
These guys are great.  They combine traditional Indian poetry and rhythms and add what they call the "new India" into the mix.... and what a mix it is. I was dancin' at first with the Tamil boys and then a group of Tamil girls pulled me into their group, then a Sinha mother pulled me into her family and then I was in front dancing up a storm with all the young people,and of course these people can dance .(yes, another dig at whitepeopledancing)...and we were sweating and movin' and smilin' and having a blast.
It was all very spontaneous as Raghu insisted that everyone get up ("come on Auntie") and that the song he was singing was from the 18th C and described then how we need to love and accept ourselves ........and it  
here is Raghu
 was a beautiful night in Galle and the band was cookin' and the love was 
exploding!  No one wanted it to stop....all that energy flowing from each individual, optimism and good will toward the person next to you, bouncing off the riffs of the guitars and smiles abounding.
All of the heat of the day dispersed, my achy body was released from the hours of just standing and talking, and I was set loose into the rhythms of the night!  YEAH!!!!!!
(the second night turned a bit Fascist as the cops were in attendance and killing everyone's buzz...... i don't have a clue why the overkill...... everyone was polite,no problems anywhere and there was no drinking\drugs and it is against the law to smoke in Public in Sri Lanka)

So full disclosure here: since I was with Sewalanka I did hang out back stage with the musicians....and since all the musicians were booked into the same erzatz  modern hip hotel as I was, it really was just two days of shmoozin' and 
laughin/relaxin' and getting to know the musicians and the French film maker who was documenting the event.It wasn't exactly like being on the bus with the Grateful Dead as believe it or not....... these guys Do Not do drugs or drink before performing (Boy have times changed)  but there was a bit of tribal family times as I experienced with the Dead (no, i am stretching this a bit)..... but all that doesn't matter.....as the music was Groovy & Great!

www.raghudixit. com- they are coming to NY in September..... Dee get a bunch of friends and I'll meet you there.......we'll dance the night away (and not with a bunch of Old People)

read about Raghu's collaborative ways on Wikipedia......

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