Tulikup Odalan: Gamelan + Dancing

A most graceful and dramatic performance by a man pretending to be a woman

 After a week of cultural disasters (that would be western); first an African American "author" purporting to write a book called, "the last hustle"  but in truth is just perpetuating one, and a dancer/performance artist  who was so self obsessed and just Untalented (ugh- the poetry  and she read it twice.... in three languages){even the setting of the magnificent  outdoor ARMA stage could not save her poorly choiced flailing} - the week was savored with a night at the Temple,
in Kulitup, between Gianyar +  Klungkung.  A Brahmin Temple.

the women waiting to enter the inner chamber of the temple with their Banten (yes they wear high heels and tight sarongs) The woman on the left has spiny durian.... those in the know.... know about durian...beware what lurks inside

My friend,Dedik who lives in Bunutan, a small village outside of Ubud invited me to come hear him play in a traveling gamelan (orchestra) for Odalan. (temple birthday- for those needing a broader explanation, please see text/photos from Jan.2011 blog)  Dedik, was a child protege in music.  In his teens, he was already the leader/conductor/teacher of the Denpasar gamelan.  He had the opportunity to study for 9 years in the USA at U. of Chicago and other universities.  He also taught at Bard (coincidentally): adjunct faculty /music/gamelan.  Yes, Bard has a gamelan orchestra....ongoing.  

notice the rolled cakes (like jellyrolls)

I usually see Dedik instructing either the Youth Gamelan/ or Banjar (village) Gamelan ....and as the "conductor" he leads with the drum.  This would be my first opportunity to hear him play with his peers.   He played the flute (bamboo) hauntingly as well as the gangsa (xylophone like, but with damping).  He plays all the instruments in the gamelan..... as well as creating new ones.

just a small smattering of the gorgeous offerings (but there can be a lot of pig/chicken carcass on them also....... in the sweltering heat)

We arrived in the evening (love those evening ceremonies) and Dedik told me that this was a Brahmin temple (the highest caste) and I asked him ,"how can you tell?"  He replied, that he was told and then told me "people have lighter SKIN" (my emphasis: that SKIN thing again).

the Mangku blessing with holy water

you wash it over your head (as it is splattered )and then drink it

the helpers- getting the holy water.... notice the beauty inside the temple.... all dressed up for its birthday

 As Dedik schmoozed with the musicians I went into the temple for the next 90 minutes to observe and participate.
I was the only "bule" (foreigner) and of course I was the spectacle (and i was wearing a new gorgeous silk sarong that even Ibu Nyoman cooed over).  One thing  that has always been difficult as a traveler is being that Object of Intrigue...... and not in a good way.  I really look forward to 
leaning into my anonymity back in the states.  
Well the only thing that I noticed in the temple, that differentiated it from other ceremonies I'd attended was the Lack of Fun that usually emanates from the crowd of worshipers.  Really, this was a serious Bunch.  Nonetheless,
kindness and curiosity remained.... and I always feel very welcome inside the temple, and encouraged to join them as their gods descend.  After prayers...... about 9pm the Entertainment begins.  And this was BAGUS (excellent) as the musicians were totally into playing with wide smiles, and jokes ,coloring their music with all the tones of Bali.  The dancers were the best from Gianyar, nothing subtle here- full fledged drama and body contortions that we as westerns..... well..... think of as Contortions.

the opening of the Legong

the beauty

two young virgins

traditional dance, he portrays a young girl\

Dedik  , my guru and friend

P.S>  sorry for the poor quality of Night photos- this Canon will be replaced This Year (in time for the next sojourn Nov. 2012) but it's hard for me to buy something new when it's Not Broken. (how pre-1980)
 I've been frustrated with it since I purchased it, and no amount of editing in Picassa can really procure what I 'd like to see visually.

P.P.S.- An Appeal
 any person who would like to contribute a donation for the after school program serving Bunutan's children (aged 6-18) would be considered truly angelic.  Dedik needs to buy a Gamelan orchestra for the youth (they use the banjar one now) and this costs $8,000.  The after-school program is one designed to combat the effects of globalization and allow the children to create strong Balinese identities by learning dance and music In Depth. (not just ritual, but in real context to learning the "whys")  checks can be made out to "The Jaladara Art Center"  or "Wayan Rachman" sent to my address at home or I can get an address for Dedik (Wayan) in Bunutan.
I will match any donations given.






travelin' woman