Saturday, February 11, 2012

Elastic Time (Jam Karet) -A Night at the Temple



Outside Diandra's homestay: with Ganesh

Jam Karet is not my term..... the understanding of time in Bali is Very Different for a Westerner.  The Balinese actually see time "Stretchy" and "Elastic".  It doesn't take long to figure this out......as when you have an appointment with a Balinese, they are inevitably late.........really late..... if they show up at all.  So considering that I spend way over 50% of my time with Balinese...... you'd think I'd finally Get It.
I do always confirm and reconfirm........
Jantuk was to pick me up at 6:45 (he'd originally told me 8pm on two other separate occasions ) to go to his village  for a "bazaar": a fundraiser/party held prior to Odalan, the temple's birthday.  Bunutan's 4 year reconstruction of its temple was finally completed, but the auspicious date picked for its birthday will be May 1, and I will be gone from Bali by then.  I really wanted to contribute something, therefore this would be  my way to  generously donate. (i thought there would be gambling also).
I called him to confirm what I should wear (temple garb can be Hot and Restricting therefore i do not wear it when not required).  He then told me he'd pick me up at 6:45pm ,and to wear temple garb.  I ran to bathe (again- one always bathes again prior to nighttime activities) and to dress up with all that would be festive. He said to meet him on Bisma, so I walked out to the street.  At that time, a Barong* came clambering up the road, with its accompanying 20-25 young boys playing instruments.*mythical protective deity of dog.demon.dragon
The children always use the 10 day holiday to take to the streets, perform and raise funds (sometimes it  feels like a shakedown....as I can see the same Barong several times in a day/eve)  I played and danced with them,laughing and enjoying the antics of the Barong....and realized Jantuk would Never be able to get the car up the street (Bisma is very narrow and tiny).  Therefore I walked down to Jalan Raya to catch him before he turned.  Well I waited...... and waited........ the sun set  and finally at 7:15 i walked back to Ina Inn (yes, that would be because I don't own a cell phone), kinda sweaty and perplexed.  Putu called for me and Jantuk said he was in Campuan (the next town).  I sat down on my porch and  drank some water.  10 minutes later Wayan came flitting down the walkway saying "Jantuk is waiting for you" As I approach he realizes there has been a miscommunication. I am surprised to see in the car his entire family plus his mother and niece +friend.  Where are we going?  We are going to KlungKung....one of my most favorite old towns in Bali (see last year's entry of it's dramatic and sobering past) to go  to the Temple.  A Night Service.
GREAT! 




Jantuk and Ayu's BEAUTIFUL boys, Putu and Kadek with cousin, Made

Ibu (Jantuk's mother) carrying the offerings

walking toward the temple

the "mall" of stores/stalls/food before the temple

Jantuk + Ayu lighting a lot of incense: we use to purify ourselves prior to praying.....then comes the holy water from the Priest

the men sit, the women kneel (thank god for all those years in Varasana pose in yoga that i can do this)

Jantuk's Ibu waiting in the next temple, for the next prayer service, she works the fields with her husband during the day

a lovely young man i spoke with while waiting..... that child was just so Imut-Imut

Well there is a lot of waiting (lots + Lots of people come so you have to wait your turn to be let inside the actual temple)
This was Gelgel  (45 minutes east of Ubud)and it was quite a scene. It's nighttime....it's a bit cooler without the sun , people are there for the night (yes it goes on all night and all day) and so outside the tourist zone that i was the only non-Balinese person attending.  Usually, they don't care.  But I was eyed and eyed by every man woman and child there.... i smiled and spoke Bahasa with them.  The women really like to look me up and down,  at my own attempt at traditional dress.  They check out everything and of course make comments with one another.  O well.......a smile is my best response.
the gamelan (from Singharaja) was playing for the evening

And of course there must be entertainment

and comedians

and jokingIt was a wonderful evening of prayer, mystery, community and traditional arts.  As we walked the gauntlet of toy stalls on the way out, Jantuk took time to buy little Kadek a toy car, motorized with battery and remote control. (Galungan is their Christmas) On the way home as Ayu and I discussed how she would have to go the market early at 5am so that she could buy for the warung, and be at Casa Luna (she's a bartender there) by 7am, we both commiserated about how hard women work. Needless to say, driving back, it was only Kadek awake.....anticipating that new car he was going to careen down the streets of tiny Bunutan as soon as he arrived home.....close to midnight.



travelin' woman

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