Re-Construction of Bunutan's Pura Dalem

entering the Zone, notice the very old sacred banyan tree

This one's for you Dad.  This is how the Balinese do their construction.  Definitely Not High-Tech.  Extraordinary teamwork, artisanship, pride in their work, and Organization that underscores all of the above.

one of the many fine artists, carving the demons/protectors on site

 Jantuk picked me up in the middle of a raging monsoon (where is jam-karet (rubber time) when it makes sense to me?) to take me to his village of Bunutan to Finally see the last phase of re-construction of their Pura Dalem.  It's been a long haul of 4 years and the Odalan (birthday) is scheduled for May 1.
Jantuk has been ferrying  priests from Tabanan + Klungkung in preparation for the celebrations.  The village had a Bazaar a few weeks ago for fundraising ....I went..... and as usual.... it was a party organized to the hilt; beautifully executed as Only the Balinese can do....and raised A lot of money.  Right after Kuningan..... the women of the village began their  preparations...almost round the clock.... of literally millions of offerings.  Obviously, it time to visit the temple.

entering the inner chamber of the temple.... all painting is done on-site

all handcarved with the sacred mythology/texts that is Hindu+ Animism

I do wish I could convey scale better for you to understand just how ENORMOUS this complex is.

Jantuk observing the workmen

Krishna (always the green/blue fella)

the Naga (dragon) holding up the world

This is a roofer.... all the roofing material is made from coconut weaving.... very very sturdy/stable/waterproof....It was all made in the village (many of Jantuk's relatives are always weaving roofs) notice he is dressed in temple garb for respect.

all scaffolding is bamboo

this artist is from Gianyar

these thatched black roofs are from the palm; they are startling and characteristic of Bali.... many tiered signify higher caste

Inside looking up at the outer roof (remember all Balinese buildings are open on the sides)

I did ask Jantuk if they are always this large (considering that Bunutan is a Village); he gave me an answer that made a lot of sense.  As Bunutan has prospered* (5 miles from Ubud) the size of their temple has gotten grander. {*most of the 20+ generation work in the tourist industry/ their parents are farmers} 

What beauty..... my mouth was agape

Silhouetted, the sculpture looks so alive

the sacred bull

 I walk around, camera in hand, standing transfixed next to the artists.....we chat: typical construction site all men......they are slightly bemused that I am interested....and in Bunutan.(this is worlds away from Ubud)...I always feel welcome (and I try to stay out of their way). I really am in awe of what I am witnessing.  It really feels sacred.  It is sacred.  The mood in the temple tells me this.

outside this is especially erected for the upacara

 I begin to wander outside to the outer chambers of the complex.  Here I find groups of village men doing their part.  I of course spot, BoPak (father) who is Jantuk's dad carving /splitting bamboo for offerings.  I know Pak because he plays in the gamelan orchestra.  He is also a farmer and has been known to scamper up a coconut tree to get me one. (he is my age)
I am so proud to tell you that this year, Pak and his neighbors have decided to begin again to farm organically.   Bali has adapted this policy 2 years ago, and will support a banjar with technical assistance, compost and seeds.  It is crucial as the ground water is getting very polluted.....not to mention the cancers in the farmers+ families. Let 's hope that more and more farmers go back to organic.  yes there is a market for this in Bali.....but more importantly; it's healthier for the Balinese and their environment.

Pak is center, in the white shirt

There is a highly complex work schedule, that involves All the villagers, [Putu,  Jantuk's 10 year old son was cleaning up the day before] it is an obligation that is truly done in joy.  It's hard not to  be cynical about this..... but it's Real.

fine work being done with such a large KNIFE

just being created

No Nails!

 

the bamboo and the community at work

Then Jantuk and I go over to where the WOMEN are working. Preparations for Odalan.  Last year I went to Taro (see last year's blog) to observe the preparations for an upacara that had not been performed in hundreds of years.  The last time Bunutan prepared for a new temple, Pak was a boy.  All the offerings differ...... depending on the upacara.
Unfortunately, my visual offerings are scant due to my *&$@?_!^!!! camera......the battery lasts such a short TIME!
 Again, the scale of the amount of offerings is staggering.  So many women and some men making offerings everyday, all day until 11pm....and it begins anew each day at 7am. 

the women wear the white headbands to denote their dedication to the spiritual work.  the baskets are all handmade, and the contents are rice, seeds, herbs +spices, nuts+ coconut

making the Kue (cakes).......... thousands of swirled medallion cakes that are so detailed...... I wish I had been able to document the making of the coconut/flour and the dyeing of it ...........it was amazing

Rows and rows of women all doing their work....highly organized, and it's all being counted.  The "accountants" all have  their roles of tallying....... the preparations will continue like this until May 1 (and in between there in is Nyepi {see the Ogoh-Ogoh blog from last year} not to mention full moon  and 15 day celebrations......O! just thinking about all the upacara makes me alternatively excited and EXHAUSTED!
 travelin' woman

Tulikup Odalan: Gamelan + Dancing

A most graceful and dramatic performance by a man pretending to be a woman

 After a week of cultural disasters (that would be western); first an African American "author" purporting to write a book called, "the last hustle"  but in truth is just perpetuating one, and a dancer/performance artist  who was so self obsessed and just Untalented (ugh- the poetry  and she read it twice.... in three languages){even the setting of the magnificent  outdoor ARMA stage could not save her poorly choiced flailing} - the week was savored with a night at the Temple,
in Kulitup, between Gianyar +  Klungkung.  A Brahmin Temple.

the women waiting to enter the inner chamber of the temple with their Banten (yes they wear high heels and tight sarongs) The woman on the left has spiny durian.... those in the know.... know about durian...beware what lurks inside

My friend,Dedik who lives in Bunutan, a small village outside of Ubud invited me to come hear him play in a traveling gamelan (orchestra) for Odalan. (temple birthday- for those needing a broader explanation, please see text/photos from Jan.2011 blog)  Dedik, was a child protege in music.  In his teens, he was already the leader/conductor/teacher of the Denpasar gamelan.  He had the opportunity to study for 9 years in the USA at U. of Chicago and other universities.  He also taught at Bard (coincidentally): adjunct faculty /music/gamelan.  Yes, Bard has a gamelan orchestra....ongoing.  

notice the rolled cakes (like jellyrolls)

I usually see Dedik instructing either the Youth Gamelan/ or Banjar (village) Gamelan ....and as the "conductor" he leads with the drum.  This would be my first opportunity to hear him play with his peers.   He played the flute (bamboo) hauntingly as well as the gangsa (xylophone like, but with damping).  He plays all the instruments in the gamelan..... as well as creating new ones.

just a small smattering of the gorgeous offerings (but there can be a lot of pig/chicken carcass on them also....... in the sweltering heat)

We arrived in the evening (love those evening ceremonies) and Dedik told me that this was a Brahmin temple (the highest caste) and I asked him ,"how can you tell?"  He replied, that he was told and then told me "people have lighter SKIN" (my emphasis: that SKIN thing again).

the Mangku blessing with holy water

you wash it over your head (as it is splattered )and then drink it

the helpers- getting the holy water.... notice the beauty inside the temple.... all dressed up for its birthday

 As Dedik schmoozed with the musicians I went into the temple for the next 90 minutes to observe and participate.
I was the only "bule" (foreigner) and of course I was the spectacle (and i was wearing a new gorgeous silk sarong that even Ibu Nyoman cooed over).  One thing  that has always been difficult as a traveler is being that Object of Intrigue...... and not in a good way.  I really look forward to 
leaning into my anonymity back in the states.  
Well the only thing that I noticed in the temple, that differentiated it from other ceremonies I'd attended was the Lack of Fun that usually emanates from the crowd of worshipers.  Really, this was a serious Bunch.  Nonetheless,
kindness and curiosity remained.... and I always feel very welcome inside the temple, and encouraged to join them as their gods descend.  After prayers...... about 9pm the Entertainment begins.  And this was BAGUS (excellent) as the musicians were totally into playing with wide smiles, and jokes ,coloring their music with all the tones of Bali.  The dancers were the best from Gianyar, nothing subtle here- full fledged drama and body contortions that we as westerns..... well..... think of as Contortions.

the opening of the Legong

the beauty

two young virgins

traditional dance, he portrays a young girl\

Dedik  , my guru and friend

P.S>  sorry for the poor quality of Night photos- this Canon will be replaced This Year (in time for the next sojourn Nov. 2012) but it's hard for me to buy something new when it's Not Broken. (how pre-1980)
 I've been frustrated with it since I purchased it, and no amount of editing in Picassa can really procure what I 'd like to see visually.

P.P.S.- An Appeal
 any person who would like to contribute a donation for the after school program serving Bunutan's children (aged 6-18) would be considered truly angelic.  Dedik needs to buy a Gamelan orchestra for the youth (they use the banjar one now) and this costs $8,000.  The after-school program is one designed to combat the effects of globalization and allow the children to create strong Balinese identities by learning dance and music In Depth. (not just ritual, but in real context to learning the "whys")  checks can be made out to "The Jaladara Art Center"  or "Wayan Rachman" sent to my address at home or I can get an address for Dedik (Wayan) in Bunutan.
I will match any donations given.






travelin' woman