Saturday, August 17, 2013

24 hours in Ubud-

The classic greeting in Bahasa Balinese


The sweetness that is Bali is apparent as soon as you deplane. The smiles, the wafting frangipani and incense the really long lines at immigration. Oops, did I just mention that? (well the new airport was supposed to open in May, July,   let us just say that the       dignitaries arrive in September + October for APEC conferences (and the airport Will Be Closed to the rest of us Mere Mortals). And in case you were thinking that the Chinese were still hoarding their savings, I will tell you that on my plane I was amongst 5 westerners.  The Chinese have discovered Bali in a big way, as they Only travel in Large Groups. (or flocks as we are known to remark)
The first thing that I notice is that the temperature is gloriously warm but not the heavy torpid humidity that the rainy season encompasses.  And then there is the glorious wind which buffets the KITES; for it is known that in July + August the skies are filled with HUGE, really Humongous Kites.... flown by a cotillion of young boys.  I have Never seen such large kites..... but then again who could dream that  Ogoh Ogoh could be so large.
Jantuk and the whole family are waiting for me. The first thing I notice is that Jantuk's hair is Very Long. Well, that completely flustered me, and I just immediately blurt out, "Is Ayu pregnant?"
(Balinese men grow their hair for the duration of their wife's pregnancy)  He laughs, and blushes and says "No".  

I think he fantasizes about getting on a surfboard and living           another kind of life.

First we navigate the traffic (yes, it's only 25 miles to Ubud, but it can easily take 1 1/2 hours) as the New Highway (going to Kuta/Sanur , all those ruined  beach paradises that I avoid) is open but not open to vehicles. Welcome to Bali, the land of the Patient.
Then we head to Bumi Sehat to deliver 2 cases of donated prenatal vitamins that I brought from the states. (you should have seen my Father's confused face as he opened the package that arrived at his home in CA)
 It was prenatal yoga night at the Clinic, which meant a lot of men hanging out  smoking on the grounds, and a lot of pregnant women trying to be comfortable in their bodies.
The reason I even tell you this is because it took another hour just to drive up Monkey Forest Road because of all the tourists and traffic- it's  HIGH  season  in Bali. (this would normally be a very short 5-10 minute drive)
The very first Ubud Jazz Festival held at the famed ARMA

Going out to hear music, dance, ceremonies is always such a whole sense(s)  experience, because everything is outside... in the glorious elements of Bali.   
Dedik and I had previously made plans to attend the first Jazz festival.  I wanted to get this great ethnomusicologist out of his "bubble", as he has submersed himself back into his own culture after spending 9 years in the states.  He was thrilled to hear what Indonesians, and other Asians interpreted as Jazz (so was I).   
the great traditional architecture is majestic and sacred (all carved by hand)
We loved hearing all the different strokes of Jazz; the standards, and the forays into original compositions.  It was  very good, not great but as this will be an annual event, I am sure the choices will evolve. 

the drummer, superb







  The next morning was the upacara for Saraswati- the Goddess of Learning: books, arts, and education.  Since it was Putu's first day in his new school (junior high) and he was to be attending the school on my street (Jalan Bisma) I was excited to attend.  I had been seeing these kids everyday, greeting them, and talking with them over the years. 
junior high


the teachers (not all serious)

the students playing the gamelan
I enter and immediately am listening to the student orchestra.
The students are fascinated that I have arrived for this. (no other parents or adults, except teachers and priests are there).  



everyone  brings their flowers + incense to pray with

the offerings to Saraswati in the school temple (no separation of church + state here)

I did mention the Balinese are ADDICTED to texting (like the rest of the world)

This cutie waited patiently for me to get the photo  RIGHT (help Diandra!)

It's been a long time since our classrooms looked like this
I plopped down next to the kids  and had a fine time joking and talking .......and then they gave me some flowers + incense and we all prayed together. A beautiful morning.  Then off to walk the rice paddies..... to Sari Organic

The drink has tamarind + ginger + lemon  sooooo Yummy + refreshing and the salad has microplaned beets (raw) ,peppers, onions ,carrots with cashews + seeds and some freshly made pita (all their breads have cumin seed, extra delicious and surprising) and homemade soft feta.  The dressing is all herbs + a little tahini blended.  I always catch up with the Jakarta Post.....and do the crossword puzzle.
Sari Organic and their Bodag (overflowing basket) is one of my favorite places on earth.  The owners, Oded + Nila will be involved with Sawah Bali.  It's their mission too.
Unfortunately, the walk to Sari Organic is no longer the pastoral walk it was..... too much development of villas + hotels.
But, I did see a farmer going about his work, something his ancestors have been doing for thousands of years.   





And look what was waiting for me....... after the heat and breezes of Bali...........  







Finally the pool at Ina Inn has been re-done.  EVERYONE got hurt on the broken ladder + tiles.   Look at that view I have as I  glide through the tranquility...... and sustenance that is Bali.



travelin' woman

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