Monday, December 23, 2013

Farewell to 2013

inside the family temple
 

A photo essay of 2013: please enjoy....... it's been a spectacular year.... filled with health and ideas and 
gratitude







John Hearst painted by Viola Moriarty-Lev,  I miss Vi's irrespressible spirit







Neville and new kitty (Diandra's little guinea pig)


My paternal grandparents' gravesites

my Dad's high school class photo







talk about a commute to make Thanksgiving Dinner for my Dad: how does 13,000 miles  + 30 hours sound? It was so worth it






travelin' woman

Friday, November 15, 2013

The Literal and Figurative Meaning of "Being Blessed"


L-R  Jantuk, Phiphi, Annie, Dedik, Mangku Jero Gede, Made  + the Priest's PR man (I kid you not)

From Day 1 Dedik kept saying, "We need to go to Kintamani and meet with Jero Gde"  
Well, earlier this week was auspicious and we journeyed upward, past tangerine groves (with cabbages growing underneath the trees) to Pura Ulun Danau Batur, one of the most sacred temples in Bali, one of the nine directional temples.  Anticipation does not even come close to what we were feeling; glee, excitement, nervousness; bordering on the transcendent.   Mangku Jero Gde is the Priest of the temple, and the temple sits on Gunung Batur, the caldera (filled in volcano) is the great water source for most of Bali's  and it is the Goddess of the Lake that gives this gift of life- water for the sawah+ subak.  We wanted to explain Sawah Bali to him and get his support and blessing.


That's Gunung Batur on the left, the caldera of water and the Pura is on the rim 
So, Jantuk picked Annie and I up early in the morning to go to Bunutan to "help" make the appropriate offerings to bring to the temple.   As you know from prior posts, I can help in only the smallest of ways, since I have not been cutting designs from bamboo, banana leaves or coconuts since I was 2 1/2 years old.  But, my enthusiasm never wanes.
Everyone was helping in the compound.
Auntie Never stops making offerings

these are just the "regular" cabang that we use for prayer ceremonies

Eldest cousin, Made is becoming a real stunner and she helped before going to school- These are WOVEN packets of special rice + herbs+ spices.
It was mainly Ayu's task of putting it all together, and we delighted in all of her handiwork.  Then she started to stab open the beautifully crafted packets of rice and I said "why Ayu".... well Annie finally pieced it together, "we need to make it easy for the Gods to open"! Well of course we do..... in all the temples there are umbrellas covering the heads of the Statues, so that the Gods will not get hot.     Notice the palm frond basket in the woven colorful basket.
N
Ya think this is easy, well there is a "WAY'" that everything must be placed + counted

Annie and Ayu packing the offerings, it's all done with that small but very sharp knife.

Annie doesn't know yet that we are going to carry these on our heads; only women must carry the offerings
We are all giddy and excited as we go over the questions and protocol.  "Dedik, is there anything I shouldn't do with the Priest?"  "Yeah, keep your feet off the table"
Working with Balinese is FUN (once you get used to the excuse, "cannot work, cannot come to meetings..... upacara in village tonight, tomorrow, next week, all month!")
The only retort to that is ,"Can I come?"
I asked Dedik what it meant to get his blessing, and Dedik said in his voice reserved for serious pedantry, "it means you must be committed". (there are always 2 meanings, the sekala (seen) and the niskala (unseen)..... and I always ask Dedik about the latter.
We climb away from the traffic and heat of Ubud, and see smaller villages and lots of abian (dry) farming and the majestic views. 
partial renovation of the temple

beauty

carving

Coincidentally, youth from Bunutan were there also, cleaning and helping as there will be a major upacara with Bunutan and Batur on the 17th (full moon), because they share a God together. Yes, I will be going to this all day and evening prayer fest.




Ganesha




Annie and I together

always creating beauty and function


We wait in the administrative offices, sitting on the floor, drinking coffee and tea.  Many of the Priest's assistants/administrators are present and participate in the meeting, all very interested and concerned.  It was spoken in Balinese, and even though I was directing the questions it was not until later that I received the transcript of what Jero Gde spoke about.  We spoke about ethics, philosophy and pragmatism. He gave us  suggestions and truly was engaged.
 It was wonderful to be in his presence . 
I don't think anyone  wanted to be anywhere else except doing what they were doing.  Annie filmed so that segments could be placed in the video that we are presenting to the subak.  It was very moving for all of us  to be there, as the talk was elevated and eloquent. The land is SO expensive here (can you believe more than almost anywhere in the U.S. except some major cities) that we need the return of spiritual component of Tri Hita Karana  for the farmers not to sell (and of course we will increase their income)

and the rains came

and continued for purification

Made and Jantuk are old friends- Made is Project Manager and Jantuk is Farmer Liaison for Sawah Bali

Yes, we are waiting to pray and be blessed

Then we went to pray and be blessed.  And the heavens opened up and we waited and waited.  Then we prayed..... and afterward, inwardly glowing...................................... we went to eat at another "Sari Organik" restaurant in Kintamani where we teased the guys that they had to eat red rice and organic!








travelin' woman

Friday, November 1, 2013

Upacara Pelebon- Royal Cremation (fit for a Queen)




a small deity to accompany the Queen to the next world

What a show, how more rococo and alive can a ceremony be ....with everyone participating ....

                                      SPECTACULAR
these warriors will protect the Queen as the procession leaves the puri (palace) 


the sacred writing on the flag will be attached to the bull for cremation

Tjokorda Istri Sri Tjandrawati





There is nothing in any other culture that can prepare you for  a royal cremation in UBUD.  And this one was beyond the other two royal cremations I have attended.

What is possible when humans work together, with great artistry and spiritualism is beyond my imagination.  The human capital is Bali sometimes appears to be made up of one pulsating body.


members of the royal family bring her favorite things to accompany her





sacrificed animals accompany all upacara





The energy of 356 men carrying the tower...... only about 500 feet before it is put down.... and the next 356 men come and take over....and you feel their energy and intention for the next 500 feet....until 7000 men have walked the procession with every muscle and  all good intention used toward bringing their Queen's body to the cemetery.  The process was illuminated by every single emotion a person can feel.


banten (offerings)
a young male member of the royal family carrying the holy water (tirta)

young girl being carried on the palenquin




Gotong Royong (working together as a community) (and this was all done in 7DAYS, voluntarily)

Tjokorda Istri Sri Tjandrawati, the royal wife of Putra, the leader of the royal family in Ubud was the woman whose Pelebon I attended.  There were at least seven upacara prior to this one; I attended one in the puri (palace)  as Dedik was playing with his gamelan (orchestra), Suadani.
the casket leaves the temple and will be carried

upward to the 9 tier (royal) tower

it is So steep, the tower bier

is an amazing 85 feet high







She had been ill with stomach cancer, and a host of terrible illnesses that led  to a fall.  In less than a year, she died in a most horrible manner, away from family, in a hospital in Singapore.   My own observation, is that most Balinese are lax in getting help when they sense it is cancer.  For the Queen, I do not know. What I have been told is that when she did go to Singapore, the doctors there could not find the cancer immediately and therefore she lost the time necessary for complete treatments .
the casket is loaded onto the tower


the bull sarcophogi

PURPLE........... a first (usually it's black) Royal
the procession begins on Jalan Raya

they turn is round and round/ topsy turvy to confuse the body

so that it does not have a chance to stay in the material world


 I also spoke with the embalmer, who said that her son (she had 2) saved her hair as it fell out from chemotherapy and that a wig was created with this hair; so in the end she went into the next world with her hair.  She had just turned 59.

yes, Ubud power was shut off beginning at 9am


detail

There was a lot of drama as the tower swayed and shaved the leaves and flowers off trees down the main road.  We walked to the Peliatan cemetery for the rest of the rituals.




now the casket must be put into the sarcophogi (bull)


casket descending


It was a blazingly hot and clear day.  One learns to surrender to a number of things here in the tropics........the heat, the need for extraordinary patience, the filth and lack of real waste management.......these I have managed all quite well.

bull is moved into place


they cut open the bull and commence all kinds of rituals such as placing the 5 elements with her, the female members of the family spread their hair and brush her body.  They discard the casket and open her body to the elements and the family prays with the priest



the immediate family


And her body is released to go to the next world..........and then be reincarnated....hopefully as another female heir gives birth...... and rebirth
Her ashes are then reconfigured into a small female body and then the family tosses these into the sea. It's such a beautiful procession to see this  parade with music marching toward the sea.


I am still working on surrendering to the Traffic and more importantly, the Tolerance toward others......... that the Balinese really embody (except for some members of their own family compound).  I am always working toward this detachment....because preoccupation toward distress just entails  the choice to "suffer"........ and I want to choose to be happy and content.



Life is Good here in Bali.















travelin' woman