Ogoh-Ogoh parade +Nyepi

Let the parade begin

It's been a time of surprises, learning and readjusting.  
Leading up to Nyepi, there has been a surge of frenzied energy.  Nyepi is the Balinese New Year. 

there are always really frightening breasts on the beasts

each Banjar is represented: hence the different colored shirts

to further scare those prepubescent boys?????

always music !

they have special poles to lift the electric lines..... but i will say Ubud loses power every cremation because of the towers

For months, the males have been creating "ogoh-ogoh".  These are demon creatures- HUGE and larger than life.  Artfully done, never repeating themselves, these creatures are then paraded....and eventually vanquished by fire. 

 (please refer to the original blog on Ogoh-Ogoh back in 2011) 

this demon was Extraordinary!!!!

his snout snorted and his mouth opened

you want details.... well howabout THIS?

or this?????!!!!!!!

The Balinese want to confuse the "demons"........so after rallying and partying (as only the Balinese can do), they begin Nyepi in silence (to confuse the demons so that they believe the island is uninhabited and will fly over Bali.)
There were thousands and thousands of gawkers + participants.
Hot, crowded and smoky.......and night descended.


I have always left Bali just prior to Nyepi (always in March) and have witnessed the ogoh-ogoh being built, but this was my first day of "silence".  I couldn't wait to embrace it.
Stay inside the family compound.  No talking, electricity...etc just a day of prayer, meditation, reading and sleeping.
Well, I should have known something was out of kilter....as  Nyepi approached I would speak with Balinese friends and acquaintances asking them if they were looking forward to the "day of silence"....as they All worked so hard all the time.  One by one, each one explained that ,"no I will not be sleeping/praying/meditating....... but doing chores around the house."
I heard them and in my own confused way thought it an anomaly.  In the past, the upacara have always been observed; they may start a little later than I was originally told (jam karet- elastic time) but they always go on.... and on....and on for hours and hours (and days too.....as I am about to return to Jantuk's for the continuation of his family temple celebration) They are always lively affairs....filled with humor as well as prayer....but they are partaken in...no matter what is going on outside the temple walls with the tourists.  The truly unique aspect of Balinese culture is that nothing stops them from their relationship with their gods and rituals....and you (tourist) may observe, partake or ignore. 
I have always chosen to partake or observe.  And this holiday I approached as I do my silent meditations.  Prepared mentally to be alert but physically still, I started the day in meditation. To awaken to what is.
Well, what I awoke to was a beehive of Activity!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The guests in the cottage next to me were loud, and I did get up the courage ...with a smile to walk over and  to ask them "please respect the silence of the day, or whisper together"
Less than 3 minutes later.......I had to remove the splattered egg off my face.......
The "kids" of Nyoman and Ina were all preparing breakfast, laughing and talking loudly with the guests. (I had purchased muesli, fruit + yogurt along with nuts etc for my meals as I certainly didn't expect breakfast and was advised to do so)  I would eat my meals on my porch overlooking the glorious rice paddies, watching the birds,butterflies,geckos and other animals. Consciously savoring.  
What was going on here????????  Whatever it was.... it was a big learning curve......and a big attitude adjustment.  
Was it the influx of tourists (7 MILLION A YEAR IN BALI) that was changing their practices?  Did they feel obligated to change their convictions to serve US?  Or was it that creeping sentiment that we in the US have with many of our holidays???? a day to "catch up" and not observe?  Or was it because it was "behind closed doors and neighbors could not see?" 
I don't know.
I went about my day as intended.  For dinner, Nyoman made a very delicious "gado-gado" [hot + spicy peanut sauce on vegetables + sprouts]-  (I had  declined lunch also) and instead of eating communally I ate on the porch.  They kept telling me that they were cooking "vegetarian".......and I knew that was for me...... despite the other 20 guests at the Inn.

travelin' woman