Under the Bali Sea with Cerulean Starfish

I should have become an oceanographer.....i do love observing and Swimming

lined surgeonfish

mature angelfish

  

Pemuteran: West Bali- National Park. (north west, not far from where you can catch the ferry to Java)
Does anyone else giggle and chuckle underneath the sea?
I do.  Snorkeling under the Bali Sea, in Pemuteran and the Menganjan Island (deer island) i am so amused by the creatures of the coral reefs.  As a painter and (former) fabric designer I also guffaw at the premise that we think we can "do better" or even "equivalent" to Mother Nature.  What Folly!  The subtleties, the patterns, the compositions, the range of colors.....it's all there (But You ALREADY  knew this)
In case you need reminding Why this planet is so extraordinary..... take a peek at the few living things that make it so special.   

Giant clam- about 2' across... all different colors and patterns.... I saw 4-5' ones in Tahiti: Polka Dotted in neon colors

       
    Some of the giant clam patterns looked just like the finest italian silks; umber and celedon.  

I spotted some very very shy octopus', usually cowering in some hole.... but i kept seeing this HUGE 3' l x 2.5 H fish jabbing at the coral.   He was fascinating: even had a Black mustache. After watching him and following him for awhile (he was a solo Triggerfish )..... i came upon him 1/2 hour later..... well this is when he turned on me, chasing, actually hitting my flipper... and i was swimming for my life.  He had sharp teeth and is very territorial and PREDATORY.  o well.... i went looking for the smaller fishies.... i found one called "sweet lips!"

Sweet Lips!

      
             
                         
           So anyone know where i can get that classic fish tale that I somehow managed Not to see, "Finding Nemo"?

 The clownfish were plentiful and very playful darting in and out of the anemone
       
 
The crinolines and cabbages of the coral reef may look like a vegetable garden..... but it's ALL alive ,and well "animal".  The sponges are electric orange  and the fan coral looks like japanese maple trees.  There is subtlety and there is flamboyance.  Lots of Psychedelica! Yeah polka dots, swirls,stripes, undulating lines, eyes, all quite staggering.

      
   

wrasse basslet

Triggerfish baring its teeth

the feather coral resembling rich velvet

TRIGGERFISH- this dude was After Me

hogfish

cerulean starfish: they drape themselves over coral

puffer fish off Menjengan Island

Parrotfish

young angelfish

orange pipefish

fairy basslet

the orange fan coral

It's the clownfish with it's partner in symbiosis; the anemone

Rabbit fish and the ubiquitous Moorish Idol

 craggy mountains come down almost to the Pemuteran beach; it's the only national park in Bali . the
park is a good place to trek and go birding (mostly sea birds).

directly outside the lovely hotel Reef Seen /where i stayed..... it had a turtle hatchery also.... the fishermen sell the eggs to the hatchery instead of eating them!  Hawksbill turtles -Turtle Conservation

What the *#@"+ ?

Blog as Therapy : Extrapolating  catharsis

Is anyone listening
(don't tell me you didn't know?)


1. Travelers/tourists who do not tip for services rendered.
Whether they "cannot afford it", or don't want to is irrespective of the circumstance.  The first adage of travel is courtesy and respect.  If you cannot abide these common courtesies; stay home. People in the tourist/service industry Depend on tips for their Livelihood. It really sickens  me to observe this. (and we are speaking about cents usually.... not even dollars)

2. Travelers/tourists who haggle to the point of unfairness; for bragging rights.
Yes in many countries it is proforma to haggle on practically
everything. And I do not expect to pay what a local pays,
since the standard of living is so dramatically different.  And I do Get Ripped Off a lot.  But, to watch a foreigner beat down a price (and we are talking small amounts of money to begin with......) to the point that it is a Power Play and really a deprivation again of earning a Living... this really disgusts me, and in a larger sense provokes the guilt of colonial exploitations.

3.Large groups of tourists: Unconscious. 25-40 people just standing there, in the middle of a walkway, staring blankly into space, in a bubble unaware that there is a world of people interacting  around them.  Either it is Pure Ego, or a complete lack of how to act, or a pathological Disconnect from their person hood.  The mentality of group travel is Most Unconscious/Disturbing.
(there's a study somewhere.....)  
My friend + driver Jantuk says that they only respond to their leader waving a flag; like bebik (ducks) in the rice paddies and their herder! 
Conditioned tourists...... what are They drinking?
They  are really missing the whole Concept of traveling.

4.Disrespect with dress (getting a theme here?)
Tourists/travelers who do not care or have not even taken the time to learn some basics about the country they are visiting.
Life is not a BEACH. The hubris of ME, the certitude of the individual and "my rights" and not caring......because they are foreign and different standards apply.  As a traveler, one is an ambassador from the outside.  Both men and women need to adjust their mode of decorum..... or just find SOME.
You don't need a burkha....... but shorts/skirt/dress just barely covering your bum and a bikini top/belly- showing- shirt is OFFENSIVE to the people who you have come to see, meet and hopefully learn something from.  And you will be treated differently, no matter your age or assets.  I have witnessed too many Mature Men + Mature Women dressed truly inappropriately. (actually for anywhere, except the privacy of their home)

5. Dread locks- Is this a generational thing?  I am so sick of seeing travelers/tourists with masses of Dirty Rope emerging from their heads.....sometimes all tied up so that it looks like a really frightening Pineapple erupting form the top of their head. And the newest transmogrification of this "do"..... both males and Females Shave the sides of their head so you've got the "concentration camp/ cancer patient " look on the sides.... and then low and behold in a moment of schizophrenia, the dreadlock thang again spewing  it's way up through the 7th Chakra (the head).

(try sitting next to someone at a restaurant as they  "shake it loose"  )......Ugh...... 
Do they ACTUALLY  think this is Attractive????????????
And please clue me in to what "Statement" they are making

Alright you know I haven't finished this blog.....the content  just keeps fermenting in the pit of  my stomach..... and low and behold.....you know it too will Detonate eventually.....

into the forum of me traveling.......and venting....the good, the bad....and the PLAIN UGLY>

travelin' woman

The Maldives/Luck in travel?

Incongruous title, yes....but I must comment on a phenomena that has occurred more than a few times.
(i hope this is not the pride before the fall)

I had been planning to go  to the Maldives before arriving in Sri Lanka.  Geographically it made sense, and the lure of the unspoilt had been building for years.
Three days ago I changed my mind and decided to go directly to Sri Lanka.
Why?    It is absurdly expensive as the islands contain  Only luxury resorts.....and I could not justify this ........as a "beach time" necessity.  I have gone snorkeling in some of the Most Pristine places; the outer islands of Tahiti in the early 80's,
Belize in the 90's.


And on the front page of the Int'l Herald Tribune 2 days ago;
reporting of a coup/ forced resignation of the Maldives first democratic president.  This never bodes well for the tourist, (not  to mention the People).  And Americans are targets for a host of new and complicated  reasons.  Violence always ensues.....


Luck......well you can decide.

1.1968 - Israel.  My parents and I were there in Jan/Feb 1968 right after the 6 Day War (which has created most of the problems in the region  since then).  A bus exploded next to ours.  A bomb. We continued our trip.


2. 1970 - Ecuador.  My parents and I were caught in the middle of a coup d'etat.  We were watching a dance performance in a theatre in Quito one minute, the next we were hustled out.  The universities closed, the army appeared.
We continued our trip.


3.1972- Germany.  I was attending the Summer Olympics in Munich with the Clerc's; the French family I had been living with.  Israeli athletes were kidnapped and  subsequently murdered.  Being the first of my family to actually visit Germany (after WWII) and feeling nervous anyway. I (we) fled (back to France), the games went on!


4.1975- Italy.  I was living in Rome, attending  art school and  I walked each day through Piazza del Popolo  to my  school/studio.  Pro-Communist demonstrations were a weekly event  and I got caught in the middle of one  getting pushed down and  tear- gassed by the polizia.  I stayed on.. warily.. .and yes....still walked each day through Piazza del Popolo (but checking through pamphlets/notices/ and inquiry the date/time of the schedule..... yes, the Italians always routinely scheduled the demonstrations)


5. 1976- Pakistan- this event is not  state sponsored political action, it's more of a cultural skewing of the war between the sexes.  I was riding the train (2nd class)  and I found myself woken up (on the top berth) by having a gun -butt repeatedly pushed into my ribs.  I was dressed modestly (long skirt+ long sleeved kurta) but it was such an affront to these men to see a woman traveling solo that this was their way of letting me know.  I  stared  them down, intransigently..... but their look of pure hatred ultimately  made me move to another car.  I continued eastward to India  + Nepal.
I made a vow never to return to Pakistan.  It hasn't been a hard one to keep.


There have been a few natural disasters also, earthquakes+ tsunami, closings of borders..bribing Afghan commandants, being accused of smuggling art,......  but i must say my favorite story is one from my parents' intrepid travel.  
In the early eighties, my parents were traveling in Colombia, down the Orinoco, following the Inca trail and found themselves in Bogota.  After waiting and waiting for their domestic flight; the airport Just Shut Down.  My Dad calmly looked outside and said, "Zena, the drug lords have taken over the airport". They found another mode of transportation and continued their trip.

So, I do not relay these tales to relay fear......fear is constricting..... nor do I admonish those who research
and calculate every trip to a "safe destination".
We live in Uncertainty during our time in the material world.
And having a bit of luck is just as Uncertain as what the news, your day or the weather will be.
Or maybe it's just karma.....and it's all preordained.










 travelin' woman

Kuningan 2012

outside my door, on my porch where the offerings are made each day, this is my Kuningan greeting

always astounding detail done with precision

it is the final stretch of the 10 day celebration.....and the ritual of creating offerings,together is in full
force.  Every minute is filled with a lot to create.... it's supposed to be another way of conveying your closeness with God.

The morning of Kuningan , Nyoman is blessing the motorcycles.  Motorcycles Are the most hazardous things in Balinese culture.  It is the family mini-van....and it is the rule not the exception that you see an Entire family seated on one, cruising down the roads.  I have seen with my own two eyes, children as young as around 8-10 driving one, with a younger  child on the back.    There is only one thing scarier in Bali; a foreigner on a motorbike.

Yes, this is Nyoman blessing the motorcycles her loved ones ride (she does also)  The motorcycles have their own Animate energy.

I wish they would adapt the use of helmets (+ blessings)

the day before, the employees are always gathering more Holy Water

the beauty and color of Bali is everywhere

/

Ina catching a bite/ they have no regular eating times/ and most often eat alone (It's the ONLY thing they do alone)

After  my breakfast (always papaya/ other tropical fruits if i want, vegetables with egg or rice,and black black Bali Kopi (no "f" sound in the language.... you can imagine them trying to say my name!), I dress in the traditional way for Pura (temple), and walk there (I am the ONLY one who walks.... the Balinese are on their motorbikes or in a car).  I have been to the Pura Dalem no less than 30 times (they also hold dance /theatre  in another part of it), and I never fail to notice something  that had previously gone unseen.

 Inside the Pura Dalem:  (every "building" is a "bale" without walls in Bali)  It's real outdoor living...... and that is one of the magical aspects of Bali. 

Yes, your eyes are not playing tricks.... this is a microwave on the dais of the temple (I do not think I would have seen this 10 years ago)  Modern Offering?

the children are always captivating

the lotus........as Balinese Hinduism is suffused with much Buddhism

the patina of moss ,always present in this climate

back home at Ina Inn

travelin' woman

Elastic Time (Jam Karet) -A Night at the Temple

Outside Diandra's homestay: with Ganesh

Jam Karet is not my term..... the understanding of time in Bali is Very Different for a Westerner.  The Balinese actually see time "Stretchy" and "Elastic".  It doesn't take long to figure this out......as when you have an appointment with a Balinese, they are inevitably late.........really late..... if they show up at all.  So considering that I spend way over 50% of my time with Balinese...... you'd think I'd finally Get It.

I do always confirm and reconfirm........

Jantuk was to pick me up at 6:45 (he'd originally told me 8pm on two other separate occasions ) to go to his village  for a "bazaar": a fundraiser/party held prior to Odalan, the temple's birthday.  Bunutan's 4 year reconstruction of its temple was finally completed, but the auspicious date picked for its birthday will be May 1, and I will be gone from Bali by then.  I really wanted to contribute something, therefore this would be  my way to  generously donate. (i thought there would be gambling also).

I called him to confirm what I should wear (temple garb can be Hot and Restricting therefore i do not wear it when not required).  He then told me he'd pick me up at 6:45pm ,and to wear temple garb.  I ran to bathe (again- one always bathes again prior to nighttime activities) and to dress up with all that would be festive. He said to meet him on Bisma, so I walked out to the street.  At that time, a Barong* came clambering up the road, with its accompanying 20-25 young boys playing instruments.*mythical protective deity of dog.demon.dragon

The children always use the 10 day holiday to take to the streets, perform and raise funds (sometimes it  feels like a shakedown....as I can see the same Barong several times in a day/eve)  I played and danced with them,laughing and enjoying the antics of the Barong....and realized Jantuk would Never be able to get the car up the street (Bisma is very narrow and tiny).  Therefore I walked down to Jalan Raya to catch him before he turned.  Well I waited...... and waited........ the sun set  and finally at 7:15 i walked back to Ina Inn (yes, that would be because I don't own a cell phone), kinda sweaty and perplexed.  Putu called for me and Jantuk said he was in Campuan (the next town).  I sat down on my porch and  drank some water.  10 minutes later Wayan came flitting down the walkway saying "Jantuk is waiting for you" As I approach he realizes there has been a miscommunication. I am surprised to see in the car his entire family plus his mother and niece +friend.  Where are we going?  We are going to KlungKung....one of my most favorite old towns in Bali (see last year's entry of it's dramatic and sobering past) to go  to the Temple.  A Night Service.

GREAT! 

Jantuk and Ayu's BEAUTIFUL boys, Putu and Kadek with cousin, Made

Ibu (Jantuk's mother) carrying the offerings

walking toward the temple

the "mall" of stores/stalls/food before the temple

Jantuk + Ayu lighting a lot of incense: we use to purify ourselves prior to praying.....then comes the holy water from the Priest

the men sit, the women kneel (thank god for all those years in Varasana pose in yoga that i can do this)

Jantuk's Ibu waiting in the next temple, for the next prayer service, she works the fields with her husband during the day

a lovely young man i spoke with while waiting..... that child was just so Imut-Imut

Well there is a lot of waiting (lots + Lots of people come so you have to wait your turn to be let inside the actual temple)
This was Gelgel  (45 minutes east of Ubud)and it was quite a scene. It's nighttime....it's a bit cooler without the sun , people are there for the night (yes it goes on all night and all day) and so outside the tourist zone that i was the only non-Balinese person attending.  Usually, they don't care.  But I was eyed and eyed by every man woman and child there.... i smiled and spoke Bahasa with them.  The women really like to look me up and down,  at my own attempt at traditional dress.  They check out everything and of course make comments with one another.  O well.......a smile is my best response.

the gamelan (from Singharaja) was playing for the evening

And of course there must be entertainment

and comedians

and joking

It was a wonderful evening of prayer, mystery, community and traditional arts.  As we walked the gauntlet of toy stalls on the way out, Jantuk took time to buy little Kadek a toy car, motorized with battery and remote control. (Galungan is their Christmas) On the way home as Ayu and I discussed how she would have to go the market early at 5am so that she could buy for the warung, and be at Casa Luna (she's a bartender there) by 7am, we both commiserated about how hard women work. Needless to say, driving back, it was only Kadek awake.....anticipating that new car he was going to careen down the streets of tiny Bunutan as soon as he arrived home.....close to midnight.

travelin' woman

Preparing for Galungan 2012

the beauty of the penjor on jalan goutama (street where dee lived)

 The bamboo penjors begin to line the side of the roads, the women can be seen beginning to create the 500 offerings required,made from bamboo,banana leaves; first working 
slowly then hurriedly, concertedly and then non-stop as daughters help; there is a furor in the air of excitement and a lot of exhaustion, the fathers chop chop chop (and off with it's head) preparing the lawar- ceremonial food the morning before...and then the Gods descend........ and Galungan ,the 10 day holiday ending with Kuningan  begins.
The holiday /ceremony that commemorates every 210 days   good over evil.

outside Ina Inn (where i reside) Agus and Made begin the process of beautifying

some of the elements tied onto the penjor (naga- snake)

Om-Kara

simpler penjors in less wealthy areas

the kids get into the action

just the beginning

all done with Knives

later in the afternoon, Agus shows me their progress (plastic protects the decorations- it is Rainy Season!)

Putu helps with the mouth(for offerings)

Cousins Kadek + Komang prepare

next door at Honeymoon.... they are finishing theirs.... rice hangs down in thankfulness

installed! (will remain in place for 1 month)

In the morning I arrive in the family temple and Ibu and Kadek are furiously/conscientiously  arranging All the offerings.  (see last year's photos Dec.2010)
We then head for the Pura Dalem (Ubud temple of the dead)
A beautiful scene of worship.  I join in.  Meet with new friends Andrew and Allison (from Toronto). They travel the world together by bicycle and really get to experience new places slowly, rurally ,one pedal push at a time.
We wander to the pasar (market)  pura (temple).  This temple ensures that the large central market thrives with thankfulness. (and good fortune)

Andrew and Allison outside my cottage

the entry to the Pura Dalem

Jalan Kajeng ,my favorite street during Galangun

the market temple

prayers + blessings

Towering thankfulness

travelin' woman