the city of Madurai, Tamil Nadu, INDIA

one of the directional temples at Sri Meenakshi Temple

Maidurai is a big, bustling, polluted city of over 1.5 million located in southern India.  It is also the city of Sri Meenakshi Temple, the apex of south Indian architecture, (as the Taj is northern's) It is a complex of temples and it reminded me of the Vatican in scope and pilgrimages.12 towers of over 150' in height are the center of the complex.  They are adorned with a dazzling array of god + demons +  heroes. This is the "gaudy" colorations that are painted and restored year after year.  It took me awhile to get used to this aesthetic.  (remember when the Sistine Chapel was restored?; I'd use the same terminology: gaudy!)

  It was built in 1560, but the history of the temple goes back further to 2000 years.  
Meenakshi, in the legend was born with 3 breasts!  At the time when she would meet her husband the additional breast would fall off.  She met Shiva and became his consort. (now you know you are not in the Vatican).

Sunset ..... the complex from the inner sanctums

absolutely breathtaking

Sunset at temple
Humanity thronged the complex especially as it got closer to sunset.  This is your Indian experience..... trying to calmly jostle  into your little piece of space to enjoy the sacred.
It Ain't Easy. 

That evening we were invited to Charles' mother's home for dinner.  (this is Charles' place of birth) Lucky Us.
Modest and small....we certainly caused a spectacle as we walked down the tiny lane to her apartment.
She made delicious chapati and a potato curry.  Also a sweet
and lovely almost pound-like cake.  The others had "mutton" (in India that would be goat) curry and loved it .......but unfortunately they were ill the next day.  All part of the experience.  Tip: eat Only vegetarian/vegan  and you Rarely get sick  (of course others think you "miss" out on everything)
i think not. The Brahmin class is strictly vegetarian and the delicacy and refined vegetarian food found in India is truly Sublime.
travelin' woman

Struggling with my own humanity every day

In Ubud (as well as each place visited in India) I am accosted by beggers. (orang minta-minta.... translated as person who WANTS).
Usually, it is a  woman with a baby at her breast and several other toddlers/young ones aside her or in front of her with their hand out,motioning toward their mouth. Or an elderly person.
 
This Breaks My Heart.
Last year, I gave away hundreds of dollars, usually less that $1  to each orang minta- minta everyday.   I also gave away fruit and nuts and bread.
I was often accosted by the same person more that once a day........ I would indignantly tell them .... "I already gave to you today"   (the subtext being; i recognize you as a person.....can't you do the same?)
I walk a lot each day.   I see the same beggars day in/day out.
I  feel miserably if I give them money.  I feel miserably if I don't.  I feel less miserable giving food.

This is My Huge Struggle.

I have done an exorbitant amount of research about this.  I have anecdotal  answers from Balinese and ex-pats.  I have read articles, stories, non-profit mission  statements and tried to delve intelligently into this issue so that  I may actually critically think myself out of this situation of Struggle. For an solution that I can adhere to; for a credo that fits me.... it's all been elusive ........ and each day's rendering has been impermanent and unsatisfying.

contradictory/real  info that creates confusion:
1. these people just don't want to work
2. if the girl gets pregnant, and the male doesn't want to marry her, she has no "family compound" to go to, be protected and taken care of; the bottom line  of the structure that is Balinese culture
3.they can go to any compound and ask for domestic work
4. they have a "pimp"- the babies are "rented", drugged etc
5. they come from out of town by bus... the very very poor from NE Bali where there is No Water and very dry, limited employment, limited resources and come into Ubud and the southern tourist places to beg
6. There are non-profit agencies set up to help these people with economic development projects procuring sustainable jobs with dignity; therefore they Choose to Beg. (I should give 
money to these agencies discouraging the individual beggar.)
7. Or volunteer with these said agencies.

Now you understand a little where the ambiguity and confusion has settled inside of me.  
I would appreciate any insight or direction that each one of you might offer.

It is a big struggle.  Currently i have not been contributing to the open hands each day...... i fear that once i give 1 rupiah.....the floodgates will open again.

Young Artists at Work

Made (cousin ) and 10year old Putu creating

 Diandra and I had a wonderful day starting at Villa Kitty.  We played with cats and kittens, all rescued by Elizabeth (Janet's PA) new organization; an obsession she was trying to bring to fruition last year.  The animals are given medical treatment, shots, neutering and hopefully will find a permanent home with a family.

Then we went to Sayan, to the home overlooking the Ayung River of "A House in Bali" 's (opera last year at BAM) Colin McPhee.  He was an ethnomusicologist who visited in the 1930's: his obsession was the gamelan.  It is primarily due to him that we in the west know about the gamelan: Lou Harrison, Steve Reich, and other musicians were greatly influenced by the music.  The house is no longer there but we paid tribute and walked the steep decline to the river. Really Steep/really long (in the heat of the day)

Dee and Jantuk in Sayan- Some View!

To make the day even more perfect we headed to Bunutan, Jantuk's village.  We went to his family compound and to Ayu's new establishment, "Warung Bunutan". (a warung is a "stall" or informal diner)

Putu creating Ogoh-Ogoh

I had brought some plasticene for is Jantuk's kids because They Are Some Impressive Artists!  (look at last year's blog) I know EVERYONE in Bali is an artist: I am still Impressed (and want to nurture this in his kids)  We watched in Amazement as they dug in and went to work. The detail is quite sophisticated and the structural engineering was very very natural for them to build (they used bamboo sticks to reinforce).

Made's creation

This is Putuh's "RANGDA" 

Kadek's Bull

Ayu made us Yummy fruit drinks of mixed tropical fruits and rice,tempe, corn fritters and my personal favorite, Stringbeans with chilis coconuts,shallots and YUMMINESS

Ayu is dressed in temple garb as she was at the pura desa when we arrived: Bunutan is getting ready for its Otalan: Temple Birthday on May 1  Ayu is one very hard working woman..... as her full time job is ceremonies, bartender at Casa Luna, Mother and of course Jantuk's wife.- Now she is proud owner of her own warung.

Now for some Random Weirdness-  these 2 women  were on the river rafting= Notice that they are fully in Muslim purdah (burkha)-{ (probably from Kuwait, Abu Dhabi or Saudi Arabia)}

travelin' woman

Becoming Balinese (almost) Part 2

You just never know who will show up at an upacara

 Today I went to Bangkiangsidem; a small village I pass as I walk the Campuan ridge line.  This is a village comprised of  60 families....all Nyoman's relatives!  Komang's girlfriend, (and relative), Putu lives in this complex and it was an honor to be invited to Mangku Baru (New Priest ) upacara.  Big big honor! It's only 10 minutes outside of Ubud and  a world away from commerce and traffic . A small village , it is surrounded by rice paddies.  I arrived very early and watched and watched in the steamy heat for hours of preparation.  Agus (cousin) drove me there; but first dropped Nyoman off at her adjacent village of Payosan for a wedding; she would be meeting us later.  (this should have been a clue that I was arriving Way Too Early.....as I had my 16" of physical discomfort for many many hours)  This ceremony again was filled with many diversions and exciting rituals.  The most beguiling being that a female High Priest  was tinkling the bell, in canting the chants, donning interesting new vestments  and it was male male priests Assisting her.
Every half an hour a small breeze would revive me, along with some tea and chatting with the women.  What I love is that "yes, I am the foreigner, and they are hospitable and kind and are quietly assessing me...(eeks is my sarong too short?).... but they do not feign added interest in me..........nor make a fuss..... they go back to their talk, giggles, work and I am left to just be"  
Traveling alone can be a "spectacle" sport, and i sometimes just get tired of being the subject.

adding more and more (my kind of people)

s

Female High Priest-....must find out more; this is first time I see a woman priest Leading not just assisting

always the dreamy startling music

blessing the North,South ,East + West (and everywhere in between)

the women sprinkling Holy Water for puja

Nyoman adding "touches"(I can never figure out the "wheres and the whys")

always adding cabang to the many many alters

Yes We Must Have Music (Gamelan from the banjar)

And theatrics

storytelling

and priests

And more storytelling

Wistfully watching"I Want In" (no dogs allowed in the temple)

the women begin to sing

what a treat- the wayand kulit (shadow puppets)

always adjusting a detail  or two or two thousand

the female priest officiating WOW

I wonder what they have to say`about That?

Ah Ina.......doing what he does best!!!!  Santai (relaxin')

I enjoyed myself immensely as his community celebrated this young man's new role in his life and village.  The prestige was evident and the pride the extended family felt was palpable.  The 
lineage and enduring culture of Bali is Intact.  Ubud participates in this at its most sophisticated and detailed .... it is a sacred covenant.



travelin' woman

Becoming Balinese (almost)

the outside festivities of Tegallatand

 I am spending most of my waking hours going to Upacara. Different Ones: each day.
This is what I mean by stating that i am becoming Balinese.
There are two major obstacles to this....that I see:
1- My body just cannot squeeze into a 16"x16" space , sitting down in prayer position for hours on end.  First, one limb goes numb and I gingerly try and stretch it out without kicking any beautifully clad Balinese Ibu, then eventually the second goes numb, or my toes cramp.....you Get It........ bodies were Not Meant To Be Still, (only minds).                                                                                                     #2- I Am Helpless when it comes to Really Helping the Women Prepare.....And This Is What the Women Do. All that small hand coordination of creating beauty.  What do I know.?.... I Paint With my Whole Body.

the great banyan tree

But let's get down to the real worries.....in becoming Balinese:
a- i am in dire worry over my sarong at all times: it always feels like it's going to come undone....... and it can often 
get swept by one leg....leaving a lot of the other leg  EXPOSED........{i know when this happens because any male of any age no longer looks me in the eye...... because their eyes are looking at my calf.....or god-forbid my Thigh- considered  highly erotic by the Balinese}  I Fear My Knee showing.  
b.-  I am a Woman of the Senses: 

Lovely Ibu sharing her "sari" with me" (flower petals for praying)  notice the "chanel" bag.... and her gorgeous gold broach is hidden  behind paper.

 I am always hot  and sweaty in Bali..... especially sitting in the outdoor temple in mid day ,when in is 90 degrees and 90% humidity. My people are not tropical people.  And all the Smells.  Yes, the different fragrances of the incense are transporting..... but underneath  and competing are the smells of  All those roasted Pigs .chickens. whatever- melting along with me in the heat.  Not to mention the sacrifices. And the cigarettes  So what do I do......when I am patiently(?) waiting for hours in the midday sun for the next part of the ceremony to continue ........ I Watch The Kids.   And they never fail to amuse me with utter joy!

the 8 year old pyromaniac sitting next to me

You want rough housing..... you got rough housing

the beauty never never stops amazing me

watch out for this one in about 10 years

Let's Play

And they are beautiful and generous on the inside too

travelin' woman