Saturday, February 11, 2012

Kuningan 2012

outside my door, on my porch where the offerings are made each day, this is my Kuningan greeting

always astounding detail done with precision
it is the final stretch of the 10 day celebration.....and the ritual of creating offerings,together is in full
force.  Every minute is filled with a lot to create.... it's supposed to be another way of conveying your closeness with God.

The morning of Kuningan , Nyoman is blessing the motorcycles.  Motorcycles Are the most hazardous things in Balinese culture.  It is the family mini-van....and it is the rule not the exception that you see an Entire family seated on one, cruising down the roads.  I have seen with my own two eyes, children as young as around 8-10 driving one, with a younger  child on the back.    There is only one thing scarier in Bali; a foreigner on a motorbike.

Yes, this is Nyoman blessing the motorcycles her loved ones ride (she does also)  The motorcycles have their own Animate energy.


I wish they would adapt the use of helmets (+ blessings)

the day before, the employees are always gathering more Holy Water

the beauty and color of Bali is everywhere
/
Ina catching a bite/ they have no regular eating times/ and most often eat alone (It's the ONLY thing they do alone)

After  my breakfast (always papaya/ other tropical fruits if i want, vegetables with egg or rice,and black black Bali Kopi (no "f" sound in the language.... you can imagine them trying to say my name!), I dress in the traditional way for Pura (temple), and walk there (I am the ONLY one who walks.... the Balinese are on their motorbikes or in a car).  I have been to the Pura Dalem no less than 30 times (they also hold dance /theatre  in another part of it), and I never fail to notice something  that had previously gone unseen.

 Inside the Pura Dalem:  (every "building" is a "bale" without walls in Bali)  It's real outdoor living...... and that is one of the magical aspects of Bali. 
Yes, your eyes are not playing tricks.... this is a microwave on the dais of the temple (I do not think I would have seen this 10 years ago)  Modern Offering?


the children are always captivating

the lotus........as Balinese Hinduism is suffused with much Buddhism

the patina of moss ,always present in this climate


back home at Ina Inn


travelin' woman

Elastic Time (Jam Karet) -A Night at the Temple



Outside Diandra's homestay: with Ganesh

Jam Karet is not my term..... the understanding of time in Bali is Very Different for a Westerner.  The Balinese actually see time "Stretchy" and "Elastic".  It doesn't take long to figure this out......as when you have an appointment with a Balinese, they are inevitably late.........really late..... if they show up at all.  So considering that I spend way over 50% of my time with Balinese...... you'd think I'd finally Get It.
I do always confirm and reconfirm........
Jantuk was to pick me up at 6:45 (he'd originally told me 8pm on two other separate occasions ) to go to his village  for a "bazaar": a fundraiser/party held prior to Odalan, the temple's birthday.  Bunutan's 4 year reconstruction of its temple was finally completed, but the auspicious date picked for its birthday will be May 1, and I will be gone from Bali by then.  I really wanted to contribute something, therefore this would be  my way to  generously donate. (i thought there would be gambling also).
I called him to confirm what I should wear (temple garb can be Hot and Restricting therefore i do not wear it when not required).  He then told me he'd pick me up at 6:45pm ,and to wear temple garb.  I ran to bathe (again- one always bathes again prior to nighttime activities) and to dress up with all that would be festive. He said to meet him on Bisma, so I walked out to the street.  At that time, a Barong* came clambering up the road, with its accompanying 20-25 young boys playing instruments.*mythical protective deity of dog.demon.dragon
The children always use the 10 day holiday to take to the streets, perform and raise funds (sometimes it  feels like a shakedown....as I can see the same Barong several times in a day/eve)  I played and danced with them,laughing and enjoying the antics of the Barong....and realized Jantuk would Never be able to get the car up the street (Bisma is very narrow and tiny).  Therefore I walked down to Jalan Raya to catch him before he turned.  Well I waited...... and waited........ the sun set  and finally at 7:15 i walked back to Ina Inn (yes, that would be because I don't own a cell phone), kinda sweaty and perplexed.  Putu called for me and Jantuk said he was in Campuan (the next town).  I sat down on my porch and  drank some water.  10 minutes later Wayan came flitting down the walkway saying "Jantuk is waiting for you" As I approach he realizes there has been a miscommunication. I am surprised to see in the car his entire family plus his mother and niece +friend.  Where are we going?  We are going to KlungKung....one of my most favorite old towns in Bali (see last year's entry of it's dramatic and sobering past) to go  to the Temple.  A Night Service.
GREAT! 




Jantuk and Ayu's BEAUTIFUL boys, Putu and Kadek with cousin, Made

Ibu (Jantuk's mother) carrying the offerings

walking toward the temple

the "mall" of stores/stalls/food before the temple

Jantuk + Ayu lighting a lot of incense: we use to purify ourselves prior to praying.....then comes the holy water from the Priest

the men sit, the women kneel (thank god for all those years in Varasana pose in yoga that i can do this)

Jantuk's Ibu waiting in the next temple, for the next prayer service, she works the fields with her husband during the day

a lovely young man i spoke with while waiting..... that child was just so Imut-Imut

Well there is a lot of waiting (lots + Lots of people come so you have to wait your turn to be let inside the actual temple)
This was Gelgel  (45 minutes east of Ubud)and it was quite a scene. It's nighttime....it's a bit cooler without the sun , people are there for the night (yes it goes on all night and all day) and so outside the tourist zone that i was the only non-Balinese person attending.  Usually, they don't care.  But I was eyed and eyed by every man woman and child there.... i smiled and spoke Bahasa with them.  The women really like to look me up and down,  at my own attempt at traditional dress.  They check out everything and of course make comments with one another.  O well.......a smile is my best response.
the gamelan (from Singharaja) was playing for the evening

And of course there must be entertainment

and comedians

and jokingIt was a wonderful evening of prayer, mystery, community and traditional arts.  As we walked the gauntlet of toy stalls on the way out, Jantuk took time to buy little Kadek a toy car, motorized with battery and remote control. (Galungan is their Christmas) On the way home as Ayu and I discussed how she would have to go the market early at 5am so that she could buy for the warung, and be at Casa Luna (she's a bartender there) by 7am, we both commiserated about how hard women work. Needless to say, driving back, it was only Kadek awake.....anticipating that new car he was going to careen down the streets of tiny Bunutan as soon as he arrived home.....close to midnight.



travelin' woman

Thursday, February 2, 2012

Preparing for Galungan 2012

the beauty of the penjor on jalan goutama (street where dee lived)

 The bamboo penjors begin to line the side of the roads, the women can be seen beginning to create the 500 offerings required,made from bamboo,banana leaves; first working 
slowly then hurriedly, concertedly and then non-stop as daughters help; there is a furor in the air of excitement and a lot of exhaustion, the fathers chop chop chop (and off with it's head) preparing the lawar- ceremonial food the morning before...and then the Gods descend........ and Galungan ,the 10 day holiday ending with Kuningan  begins.
The holiday /ceremony that commemorates every 210 days   good over evil.
outside Ina Inn (where i reside) Agus and Made begin the process of beautifying




some of the elements tied onto the penjor (naga- snake)

Om-Kara

simpler penjors in less wealthy areas

the kids get into the action

just the beginning

all done with Knives

later in the afternoon, Agus shows me their progress (plastic protects the decorations- it is Rainy Season!)

Putu helps with the mouth(for offerings)

Cousins Kadek + Komang prepare

next door at Honeymoon.... they are finishing theirs.... rice hangs down in thankfulness


installed! (will remain in place for 1 month)


In the morning I arrive in the family temple and Ibu and Kadek are furiously/conscientiously  arranging All the offerings.  (see last year's photos Dec.2010)
We then head for the Pura Dalem (Ubud temple of the dead)
A beautiful scene of worship.  I join in.  Meet with new friends Andrew and Allison (from Toronto). They travel the world together by bicycle and really get to experience new places slowly, rurally ,one pedal push at a time.
We wander to the pasar (market)  pura (temple).  This temple ensures that the large central market thrives with thankfulness. (and good fortune)

Andrew and Allison outside my cottage

the entry to the Pura Dalem

Jalan Kajeng ,my favorite street during Galangun



the market temple

prayers + blessings

Towering thankfulness



travelin' woman